This is not the case with Ono Jiro, a sushi chef working out of a small
bar in Ginza, Tokyo. As with many restaurants in Tokyo, that sit in the
basements of building complexes or Metro stations, Jiro’s restaurant, Sukiyabashi
Jiro, looks small and underwhelming from the outside. But with three Michelin
stars to its name and worldwide fame among the world’s top chefs, this is an
exclusive restaurant where only the most fat and/or annoying can dine.
David Gelb’s documentary is one without narrative or particular linear
structure. The focus is more on interviews with the man himself and his wider
team about their relationship and the fine details that go into the set up. After
75 years in the sushi game, the mentality comes across as keep it simple and
stay on top of each and every fine detail. So far, only one other restaurant has
been opened: by his younger son in another Tokyo district.
Staying in control is Jiro’s main aim, wanting to still be able to
determine what happens in his restaurant each day, rather than relying on
others to take charge. Indeed, the most interesting part of the documentary is
his relationship with his elder son, Yoshikazu, who by tradition will take over
the restaurant when his father is no longer able.
With his father 85 at the time of the filming, Yoshikazu is starting to
take greater responsibility for the restaurant under the watchful eye of his
father; an eye that makes both chefs and diners nervous.
With his age and masterful nature, Jiro is able to spout various words
of wisdom, showing a man that, as Craig Charles will slightly offensively put,
is a a ‘happy, slappy, Jappy chappy.’ Complete with various money-shots of freshly
prepared sushi throughout, the film, much like the eating experience at
Sukiyabashi Jiro is made out to be, is a short but enlightening one.